A Very Special Egg Salad... With Caramelized Onions, Sautéed Mushrooms & A Border of Crisp Bacon

(September 14, 2006)

Jackie asked Lauren:
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My favorite way to enjoy cooked eggs is when they're hard boiled, but sometimes they come out better than others. Sometimes, when I cut open the cooked egg, the outside of the yolk has a greenish tinge and the smell is very strong (which is off-putting). I'm not sure why this happens. And, at times, my eggs are so hard to peel! I often wonder why eggs sometimes peel easily and, at other times, the shell seem hopelessly stuck to the cooked white. Also, when I want to serve a platter of halved cooked eggs, sometimes the yolk is perfectly positioned and sometimes the yolk is way off center and all the way down at the bottom rim of the white. This keeps my eggs from looking uniform. I thought you could help. Thanks for your time.

Lauren says...

Firstly, the term "hard-boiled" is a misnomer. Eggs to be served firm-cooked should never be boiled but, instead, they should just be simmered over low heat. Actually, the very best way I've found to cook eggs to the firm stage is to let the whole eggs just sit, fully submerged, in water that's just come to a bubble, in a covered pan and off the stove. After 15 minutes, the eggs are always perfect. To do this: Bring the eggs and water just up to a boil (uncovered), over high heat, then pull the pan to a cool burner, apply the lid and set your timer for 15 minutes. If necessary, to speed up this process, you could simmer the eggs, gently, uncovered, for 5 to 6 minutes, then you'll immediately remove them from the pot to prevent over-cooking. Be sure to add salt to the water, though, just as the water begins to move. This will help to cushion the eggs as they cook, so they don't crack if they should bump into one another in the pan.

The pungent smell and greenish tinge you're referring to comes from both cooking eggs too aggressively and from cooking them too long. Not only does this leave the egg white tough and rubbery, with a slightly grayish tint, but this causes the sulfur compounds in the yolk to react with the iron content, which smells bad (like rotten eggs) and causes the outside of the cooked yolk to become an unsightly muddy green color.

"Perfect" eggs at the firm stage will have whites that are really tender and the color will be perfectly white. The yolk should be either a bright, bright yellow or a very vibrant orange, depending on the diet of the chicken. The color at the center of the yolk, sometimes, will be a bit denser looking than the perimeter (think of what fresh salmon cooked to medium-rare looks like).

About peeling cooked eggs: Many recipes, unfortunately, instruct readers to shock the hot eggs in an ice-cold water bath before peeling them. This is a mistake since warm eggs will always peel easier than cold eggs. It's best to run the hot eggs briefly under cool water, just until cool enough to handle. Also, although eating really fresh eggs will always taste the best, the fresher the eggs, the harder they will be to peel (sorry, but true). This is because as an egg ages, the water in the whites start to evaporate, leaving a larger space between the egg and the shell.

Regarding a "perfect placement" of the yolk after cooking, this is pretty easy to fix. The reason why an egg yolk becomes off center is simply because of the way it's stored in the refrigerator. The fresher the egg, the thicker (more gelatinous) the white, which can better suspend the yolk in the center. As an egg ages, the white becomes more watery (thinner) and the yolk will fall closer to the bottom of the shell, as it sits upright in the carton. Try storing your eggs (the night before cooking them) on their sides. This should help.

OK, now that I've told you all about how to cook eggs to their firm stage, here's a recipe for A Very Special Egg Salad! My family just loves this recipe-I hope you and yours will, too.

A Very Special Egg Salad...With Caramelized Onions, Sautéed Mushrooms & A Border of Crisp Bacon

Yield: serves 6

This special egg salad, that's loaded with savory goodies, is a great mid-morning brunch dish, served with hot toast. I've also served it before dinner, as a spread, with cocktails. If desired, you could fold the bacon into the egg salad, instead of using it as a border. You could also omit the bacon entirely, if you wish. Either way, to enjoy best taste and texture in any egg salad, serve it shortly after being assembled, so the freshly cooked eggs still retain some warmth. If you must make this (or any) egg salad in advance, refrigerate it but always bring it close to room temperature before serving. Also, don't apply the bacon until just before it's time to eat. If made in advance, you might need to add a bit more mayo, to loosen and refresh the texture.

For the Egg Salad:
• ¾ pound Black Forest slab bacon, sliced 1/3 inch thick and cut into ¼-inch cubes (optional, but highly suggested)
• 1 large yellow onion, peeled and sliced into very thin wedges, then each wedge halved widthwise
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter or extra-virgin olive oil
• 10 ounces button mushrooms, wiped cleaned and somewhat coarsely chopped
• 4 ounces shiitake mushrooms, wiped clean, stems removed and caps somewhat coarsely chopped, optional
• 12 extra-large eggs
• ½ cup best-quality mayonnaise or enough to reach your desired consistency
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 3 generous tablespoons minced fresh chives (or substitute chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley)

1) To cook the bacon, if using: Fry the cubed bacon in a large 12-inch heavy-bottomed skillet, over medium heat, until crisp and golden. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the bacon to a plate lined with doubled paper towels and set it aside. Dump out all of the oil from the skillet but don't wipe out the interior. Place the skillet back on the stove, on a turned off burner.

2) To cook the eggs: To cook the eggs, place them in a 4-quart saucepan and add enough cold water to cover the eggs by 2 inches. Place the pan, uncovered, over high heat and, as soon as the water begins to bubble, sprinkle in a tablespoon of salt. Bring the water to a full bubble, then cover the pan and remove it from the hot burner. Let the pan sit undisturbed for 15 minutes. Drain and immediately run the eggs under cool water, just until they're just cool enough to handle. While still very warm, crack and remove the shell. Place the warm eggs in a large mixing bowl.

3) To sauté the vegetables: Heat the skillet used to fry the bacon over high heat and, when hot, add 1 tablespoon butter or extra-virgin olive oil. When the fat is hot but not smoking, stir in the onions and cook them, uncovered, over high heat until they are softened and very fragrant, about 10 minutes. When the onions begin to turn golden, reduce the heat to medium and continue to cook them until very soft and deeply caramelized, about 10 more minutes. Season with black pepper and salt to taste, and then scrape them into a medium-sized bowl. Replace the skillet back on the stove over high heat and, when hot, add 1 more tablespoon butter or oil. When the fat is hot but not smoking, add the chopped mushrooms and cook (stirring frequently) until they release their liquid. Scrape up any clinging bits of bacon and onions, and then continue to cook until all the liquid evaporates and the mushrooms become golden. Season the mushrooms with salt and pepper, and then scrape them into the bowl with the onions.

4) To assemble the egg salad: Mash the cooked eggs into small pieces, using an old-fashioned potato masher. Fold in the sautéed vegetables along with the chives or parsley, then stir in enough mayonnaise to bind the egg mixture to your liking, without overdoing it. Season the mixture, once more, with salt and pepper. Use a rubber spatula to transfer the egg salad to a pretty serving bowl. Smooth the top, wipe off any excess from the sides of the bowl, and place the crisp bacon cubes around the egg salad, creating a border. Serve soon.

Timing is Everything

To enjoy best flavor and texture in egg salad, this dish should be prepared not more than an hour or so before serving. However, the components of this dish can be broken down, into several do-ahead steps.

The bacon can be cubed, and all the vegetables prepared for cooking, one day ahead and stored, separately, in the refrigerator, well-covered. The bacon can be fried and drained and the vegetables can be sautéed a few hours ahead and placed in separate bowls. Just before assembling the egg salad, reheat the vegetables over low heat and the bacon, wrapped in foil, in a 350°F oven for 10 minutes, until both are warmed throughout.

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Lauren Groveman recipes have been featured in many national magazines and local newspapers. Her books "The I love to Cook Book: Rediscovering the Joy of Cooking for Family and Friends" and "Lauren Groveman's Kitchen, Nurturing Food for Family and Friends" are available through Amazon.com. Lauren hosts an hour-long, "live" weekly radio show, Food Family & Home "Matters," on 1460 WVOX.

For in depth information on Lauren Groveman as a writer, teacher, TV & radio host, as well as her recipes and cooking tips visit her website at www.laurengroveman.com

Lauren is a Larchmont resident. She is happily married and blessed with three wonderful children.