No, It's Not Chopped Liver....Savory Mushroom Spread

(April 13, 2006)

Joan asked Lauren:
Hi Lauren,
I loved your salmon marinade recipe. But that's not why I'm writing. I noticed in today's column that you suggested buying dried porcinis at Costco. We used to get them there, but they haven't stocked them in a long time -- maybe even a year. I've asked several times and all they've come up with are the shitakes. If you see them there, let me know and I'll race over. My husband uses them all the time. A quick second question: Can you eat dried mushrooms after reconstituting, without cooking them further? Also, since I often see sliced raw mushrooms being served on salads, in restaurants, I was wondering about safety. I remember reading, years ago, that it's best to cook mushrooms before eating. Your thoughts?
Thanks.

Lauren says...
About dried mushrooms "not" found at Costco: So sorry that Costco seems to be falling down on the job! I bought two large canisters of dried porcinis there last year and I'm still using them. I just assumed that Costco still sold them. Dried mushrooms are available in all specialty food shops and even at some well-stocked supermarkets. They're sold sliced or broken in smallish cellophane pouches, so look for those with the largest mushrooms (slices are preferable to irregular pieces). And, by the way, you can use the dried shitakes instead of the porcinis, but their liquid will have a different and less intense flavor. Try it, though, you might just love it! …

Can reconstituted dried mushrooms be eaten without further cooking?: Yes, dried mushrooms can be used "as is" once reconstituted and without further cooking. However, since the texture of dried mushrooms, once reconstituted, is quite lifeless and since it's the liquid left after making them supple that has the "real goods" in the flavor department, it's best to combine reconstituted dried mushrooms with some cooked fresh ones. This goes for all dried mushrooms. By the way, another great thing to do with dried mushrooms is to grind some up in a spice grinder, pour a small amount of boiling water on top, just to make a loose pasty consistency and then incorporate them in your bread dough, pasta dough, sauces for rice and stews, etc. This adds an earthy dimension to dishes that's hard to fully describe, other than to say that it's truly delicious.

Are fresh mushrooms safe to eat, when uncooked?: Although fresh mushrooms may be eaten raw, it's best not to make a habit of it. Raw mushrooms contain small levels of toxins (called hydrazines), which are a natural protective substance produced in fungi to deter predators. Fortunately, most of these toxins are destroyed during cooking or after drying. To cook fresh mushrooms properly so they become golden and savory, they should be sautéed over intense heat in either hot olive oil or butter (full or clarified). Remove from heat after all their exuded juices have evaporated and the mushrooms turn golden and give off a very savory aroma. Whole mushrooms, with their stems removed, make wonderful containers for savory fillings for an appetizer or first course. Or they can be sliced, chopped or quartered and sautéed with garlic and fresh herbs to add to sauces, soups, rice, stews, omelets, soufflés or to top crisp hot garlic toasts. Again, the list goes on. Since we're still on the subject of mushrooms, below is a fabulous "family favorite" recipe that uses them fresh and perfectly cooked!

No, It's Not Chopped Liver....Savory Mushroom Spread

Yield: about 2 cups (this recipe can be doubled)

It always amazes me how this meatless spread really does look like perfectly prepared chopped liver. I'll often include it when I want to serve something savory to my vegetarian friends and family members before dinner. Having said that, my family (most of whom are all devout carnivores) adores this wonderful mixture made from an abundance of mixed sautéed mushrooms, onions, garlic and firm cooked eggs. Jon, my husband, has requested that I keep this mushroom spread in the house all the time, so he can enjoy it for breakfast, on his morning toast!

For the spread:
• 1/2 pound each, button and shiitake mushrooms, wiped clean
• 2 extra-large eggs
• 4 tablespoons (or more as needed) Garlic Confit oil or extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 1 large yellow onion, sliced into very thin wedges and separated into strips
• 6 cloves garlic, minced, divided
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1/4 cup minced fresh chives
• Suggested accompaniment: Garlic Toasts (see the following recipe) or warmed crackers

1) To prepare the mushrooms: Cut off and discard the stems of the shiitake mushrooms and trim away any tough bottoms on the stems of the button mushrooms. Chop the mushrooms, into small but textural pieces and combine them in one bowl.

2) To cook the eggs: Place them in a 2-quart saucepan and add enough cold water to cover the eggs by 2 inches. Place the pan, uncovered, over medium heat and, as soon as the water begins to bubble, sprinkle in a generous teaspoon of salt. Bring the water to a full boil, then cover the pan and remove it from the hot burner. Let the pan sit undisturbed for 15 minutes. Drain and immediately run the eggs under cool water, just until they're cool enough to handle. While still very warm, crack and remove the shell. Place the eggs in a large mixing bowl.

3) To sauté the mushrooms and onions: Heat a large 12-inch heavy-bottomed skillet over high heat and, when hot, add 2 tablespoons of the oil. When the oil is very hot, but not smoking, stir in the onions. Cook over high heat, stirring frequently, until the onions are reduced and they begin to turn golden, about 8 minutes. Stir in half of the garlic, reduce the heat to medium-high, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are deeply caramelized, about 10 minutes more. (If at any time the pan seems too dry, causing the onions to burn, add a bit more oil.) Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Transfer the onions to a bowl and put the skillet back on the stove, without wiping out the interior.

Heat the same pan over high heat with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. When the oil is hot, add the mushrooms and cook them, stirring frequently, over high heat until they begin to release their juices. Stir in the remaining minced garlic and continue to cook, until the mushrooms turn golden and give off a very savory aroma. (If at any time the pan seems too dry, causing the mushrooms to burn, add a bit more oil.) Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the cooked onions and the chives. Heat the vegetables together, just for a minute, then use a wooden spatula to scrape up any caramelized bits of onions and mushrooms from the bottom of the skillet. Transfer the sautéed mixture to the bowl of a food processor, fitted with a steel blade.

4) To finish the spread: Place the cooked eggs on top of the sautéed mixture and add a good dose of salt and black pepper. Pulse the vegetables and eggs together until finely chopped, but not pureed (the mixture will look exactly like a batch of chopped chicken liver). Transfer the spread to a decorative bowl or crock and smooth the top. Sprinkle salt and pepper on top, then let the spread cool, covered with a doubled sheet of paper towels, at room temperature. Once cool, for best flavor, chill the spread for several hours (or up to two days), leaving the paper towels in place and wrapping over it with plastic wrap or aluminum foil.

Let the dish sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving with garlic toast, or your favorite store-bought crackers, warmed on a shallow baking sheet, in a preheated 350°F oven, for 5 to 10 minutes.

Timing is Everything:

• The spread can be fully assembled two days ahead and kept refrigerated, well covered. Leftovers stay good for a couple of days after that (about 5 days total).

Garlic Toast for Crostini or Just Good Eating...

To me, this garlic toast recipe is like a favorite pair of shoes. I always pull it out when I want to feel comfortable. In addition to serving them before dinner, with cocktails, they are also a wonderful partner for a salad, a soup meal or a casual supper. When serving these toasts for cocktails, broil them about five minutes before your guests are due to arrive, since the aroma from both, the sizzling garlic and the parmesan cheese provides an awesome way to welcome your friends. Also, if planning to serve the toasts on a platter with further embellishments on top, don't apply them until your guests arrive. Usually, after pre-broiling the toasts on both sides, I turn them over so the cheese side is up and I just keep the broiler on. That way, when my guests arrive, I can just run them under intense heat, to freshen things up.

For the garlic toasts:
• 1 stick butter, softened or use ½ cup Garlic Confit oil or extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf Italian parsley
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil (optional)
• ½ teaspoon crumbled dried oregano
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 10 slices of best-quality, crusty Italian bread with sesame seeds, cut into 1/2-inch thick slices
• About 1/2 cup freshly grated best-quality Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Timing is Everything:

• The garlic butter can be made ahead and kept in the refrigerator, well covered, for a week. If using oil, 3 days. If using butter, you can also freeze it for up to 1 month. Thaw the butter until very spreadable before using.



• If your bread is very fresh, the garlic toasts can be fully assembled, but not toasted, two days ahead, and stored in the refrigerator, securely covered. Let the slices come to room temperature before broiling.

Questions for Lauren Groveman's Kitchen:

Lauren Groveman recipes have been featured in many national magazines and local newspapers. Her books "The I love to Cook Book: Rediscovering the Joy of Cooking for Family and Friends" and "Lauren Groveman's Kitchen, Nurturing Food for Family and Friends" are available through Amazon.com. Lauren hosts an hour-long, "live" weekly radio show, Food Family & Home "Matters," on 1460 WVOX.

For in depth information on Lauren Groveman as a writer, teacher, TV & radio host, as well as her recipes and cooking tips visit her website at www.laurengroveman.com

Lauren is a Larchmont resident. She is happily married and blessed with three wonderful children.