Baking Powder Biscuits, A Family Tradition

(March 16, 2006)

Jan asked Lauren:
Dear Lauren,
I read your recipes (and love your books) and thought I'd ask you about choosing and using cookie sheets. In your recipe for peanut butter cookies (a few columns back) you suggest using "cushioned" cookie sheets and in the scone recipe, you suggest using flat ones. I'm a bit confused because I thought that the pans that I use, with 1-inch sides, are called "cookie sheets." Do I really need to have three kinds of cookie sheets? Are the sheets I have not "useable" for cookies or scones? Again, I'm confused.

Lauren says...
Although all of the items you mentioned are all technically called "baking sheets," some are better suited for different culinary purposes. So, first, let me explain the constructional differences between all three of them to help clarify why one is considered preferable to another, when cooking or baking. After that, I'll let you know how to maximize the "success potential" of the type of pan that you (and most home-cooks) own.

Cushioned Cookie Sheets:. These "cookie sheets" are two pieces of stainless steel, melted together, with a pocket of air trapped in between. Since cookies are full of sugar, this makes them extra heat sensitive. The reason for this unique "cushioned" type of construction is to help shield the bottom of cookies as they bake, to prevent scorching. The flatter cookie sheets (without this insulating air pocket) brings the cookie dough very close (often too close) to the preheated oven rack, making it more likely that a cookie will burn on the bottom before being deemed "done" on top. So, that's why cushioned sheets, which bake cookies more gently, are my "pick" to help you, the cook, to have more control of the quality of your results.

Flat Cookie Sheets (without sides): These very thin, flat sheets (without sides) are preferable when baking highly leavened “short cake” type of mixtures (i.e. biscuits and scones) because they offer the dough the quickest shot of intense heat generated from the preheated oven rack. This initial exposure of intense heat helps the liquid components in the dough to quickly interact with the leavening, causing the dough to rise upward before the leavening exhausts its potential and before the dough reaches its “setting point.” After that, the dough will no longer rise, but will continue to cook through. The thicker “cushioned sheets” (see above) soften the dough’s exposure to heat, thus delaying and stunting its initial rise.

Baking sheets (with one inch sides): Technically not cookie sheets, these baking pans (called “sheet pans”) are good for baking sheet cakes and for roasting since their sides, albeit low, will do both, enclose a cake batter and/or give meat the full exposure to the “dry heat” that it needs to become crisp. (Having full exposure to “dry heat” is the actual definition of roasting). The reasons why these pans are not technically perfect for all types of cookies is twofold: One: because of the thinness of the bottom and also because of their 1-inch sides, which shield the cookies, ever so slightly, to top heat which could cause the cookies, biscuits or scones, to require more time in the oven (both reasons increase the risk of scorching on the bottom and could inhibit top browning). Jelly roll pans are smaller and have sides that are a bit lower than the most common sheet pans. They can be used interchangeably with the regular ones with 1-inch sides.

If you only have sheet pans with 1-inch sides: Since most home-cooks will have these baking sheets at home, let’s talk about how to make these work, regardless of what you’re baking. If making cookies, where you want to minimize the risk of scorching on the bottom during baking, you can bake your cookies on the inverted bottom of your baking sheet. Simply turn it over and either grease it or place a sheet of parchment paper on it (according to your recipe) and then scoop your cookie dough onto this inverted bottom of the pan. The 1-inch sides will elevate the sheet from the hot oven rack, thus creating a pocket of insulation, offering your cookie dough a gentler way to bake. If making biscuits or scones, the sides are low enough not to interfere too much with the rise. I suggest baking on the lowest level of the oven for the first half of baking, to help generate more bottom heat. After that, transfer the sheet to the center shelf, to complete the baking process.

To sum things up: No matter what type of pan you have, you can be a successful baker if you understand the players involved (how your equipment and ingredients work together). Now, to practice baking with your new level of knowledge, try this recipe for truly delicious (and ethereal) Baking Powder Biscuits. Have fun!

Baking Powder Biscuits

Yield: about eight 2-inch biscuits

Unlike yeast dough, which requires tough and persistent kneading from the cook, hands that touch biscuit dough have to be much gentler. For the tenderest biscuits, each kneading movement must be lighthearted and superficial, with the goal of just making the dough cohesive enough to be rolled (or patted) out. Homemade biscuits are usually a bit irregularly shaped after baking. Resist the temptation to work the dough aggressively, in the hopes of making the dough smooth. Most people would take a lopsided biscuit over a tough one any day. Whether sitting next to a mound of hot scrambled eggs at breakfast or sharing the spotlight with a succulent roast chicken at dinner, these biscuits are destined to become a family tradition, trusted to bring comfort any time you want.

For the biscuits:
• 2 cups prepared Biscuit/Scone Mix or see the end of this recipe
• 3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small dice
• About 1 1/3 cups heavy cream
• Additional all-purpose flour, as needed, for dusting
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, to glaze biscuits
• Softened butter and/or jam, for serving

1) To set up: Line a thin, flat cookie sheet with ungreased parchment paper and preheat the oven to 400°F.

2) To assemble the dough: Place the biscuit mix into either a large mixing bowl or in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Add the cubed butter and, if not using a machine, cut the butter into the dry mix, using a hand-held pastry cutter or your fingertips. If using a food processor, pulse the diced butter with the dry mix. Either way, blend until the mixture looks like coarse meal. Pour 1 1/4 cups of the heavy cream into the bowl of dry ingredients.

• If working with a food processor: add the cream to the work bowl and give it several quick pulses, just until the dry mix is thoroughly moistened and able to be turned out and handled.



• If making biscuits by hand: Use a wide blending fork to, gently but thoroughly combine the wet and dry ingredients without overworking the mixture. As some of the flour becomes moistened by the cream, push that section of the dough to one side of the bowl and continue, until the dough resembles a moist, shapeless mass. (If dough seems too dry, add the remaining tablespoon or so of cream.)

3) To cut biscuits: Turn the mass out onto a lightly floured surface and knead it very gently, about 8 or 9 times, until it holds together (see the introduction of this recipe for more information.) Using a wooden rolling pin or a lightly floured hand, roll or pat the dough out to a thickness of about 1 1/2-inches. Using a floured 2-inch biscuit cutter, cut out as many rounds as possible, using a “straight down, up and out” motion. Lay the rounds on the prepared baking sheet and gather the scraps so you can gently knead them just to smooth the surface. Pat or roll the dough out again and cut out more rounds.

4) To bake: Brush the tops of the biscuits with melted butter and place the sheet into the center of the preheated oven until they have risen high and turn light golden brown, 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve hot, with softened butter and/or jam.

If you don’t have the pre-assembled biscuit mix:
For each batch of biscuits, mix 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour with 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder, 1 tablespoon sugar and 3/4 teaspoon salt. Whisk well and follow the previous recipe instructions above.

Timing is Everything:

• The unbaked biscuits can be prepared 24 hours ahead and refrigerated, covered well with plastic wrap. For best texture, bring the chilled dough close to room temperature before brushing with butter and baking.
  

 

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Lauren Groveman recipes have been featured in many national magazines and local newspapers. Her books "The I love to Cook Book: Rediscovering the Joy of Cooking for Family and Friends" and "Lauren Groveman's Kitchen, Nurturing Food for Family and Friends" are available through Amazon.com. Lauren hosts an hour-long, "live" weekly radio show, Food Family & Home "Matters," on 1460 WVOX.

For in depth information on Lauren Groveman as a writer, teacher, TV & radio host, as well as her recipes and cooking tips visit her website at www.laurengroveman.com

Lauren is a Larchmont resident. She is happily married and blessed with three wonderful children.