a recipe for delicious living
Tamari & Peanut Oil?
-- and
Chunky Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip Sandies
(January 26, 2006)
Dear Lauren,
I read your recipe last week for Ginger-Scented Salmon (sounds delicious)
and I want to make it for company next week. I have a question (three,
actually). In the ingredients list, you mentioned two items that were
unfamiliar to me: tamari and cold pressed peanut oil. Can you explain
what they are? And, can I substitute a low-sodium soy sauce for the regular
kind (or for the tamari) whenever I choose, or will that affect the success
of a given recipe. Thanks. (I love being able to ask you questions!!)
Sharon
Dear Sharon,
Years ago, in this country, there was only one kind of readily available soy sauce and the only type of peanut oil was highly refined and deemed "the best" for deep frying. Today, as I'm sure you've noticed, browsing through the aisle of your local supermarket, things are very different.
Soy Sauce - So Different
Tamari is essentially a Japanese variety of soy sauce. All soy sauce is made by fermenting boiled soy beans and either roasted wheat or barley. Soy sauce produced in the United States, China and Japan all differ in color (from light to dark), in texture (from thin to thicker) and in range of saltiness (from low to high in concentrated sodium). Dark soy sauce is a bit thicker than the lighter kind but the former is a bit less salty (confusing, I know...) and the darkest form of soy sauce (from China) is almost black and more viscous, due to the addition of molasses.
My preferred kind of soy sauce is tamari, which is dark, richly flavored and on the salty side. It's also wheat free, which is important if you or someone in your family is sensitive to wheat. Once opened, all types of soy sauce can be stored successfully on a cool, dry pantry shelf for many months.
As far as substituting low-sodium soy sauce for the regular kind, that is absolutely fine. Actually, that is one of the most empowering parts about "home cooking." You're the boss when it comes to the amount of sodium, sugar, fat, etc. in the foods you prepare and serve. However, there can be a taste difference when you alter the type of soy sauce called for in a given recipe. Many times, a recipe developer will balance a salty soy sauce with another ingredient, helping the overall mixture to even out. But, again, if you're sensitive to sodium, you can use a "low sodium" soy sauce with perfectly good results.
Smell the Peanuts
Now, let's talk about peanut oil. The most readily available and familiar kind is highly refined (made by Planters) and it is prized for its mild flavor and its ability to reach high temperatures (450°F) without smoking, thus making it perfect for deep frying foods. Think of cold pressed peanut oil as the equivalent to a really fruity extra-virgin olive oil. When you open the bottle and take a whiff, it should smell like your favorite brand of peanut butter. Because cold-pressed peanut oil has more of the nut's virgin oils, it is highly perishable and, once opened, must be refrigerated. Even an unopened bottle will go rancid if left on the shelf too long. Always smell this oil before using it and, if the scent isn't incredibly exotic and intensely nutty, don't use it. Cold-pressed peanut oil is one of my favorite "ingredient finds" of the past decade. The product I prefer is made by Loriva, which is available in supermarkets, Asian markets and specialty food shops.
Lauren G.
While we're on the subject of peanuts, check out this week's delicious cookie recipe:
Chunky Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip Sandies
Yield: about 4 dozen cookies 
These cookies will absolutely melt in your mouth!
Typically, a cookie labeled a "sandie" is one with a seductive
texture that's firm at first bite and then melts away on the tongue. Because
this cookie has the added texture of chopped peanuts and chocolate chips,
the dough tends to be on the crumbly side, but it's still easy to work
with. For best texture, use a regular peanut butter instead of one from
the health food store, labeled "natural." This recipe is always
a hit with my students, frequently requested by my friends and always
gobbled up by my family. Once cool, these cookies store well and make
a nutritious addition to a lunch box or an after-school snack. At holiday
time, bake them in bulk, package them in decorative tins and send them
off to friends and business associates.
-
Special Equipment
- Cookie sheets, either cushioned or thin
- Food processor or sharp chef's knife to chop peanuts
- Electric mixer (optional)
- Cookie scoop with capacity of 2 liquid tablespoons (optional)
-
Ingredients
- Melted butter, for cookie sheets
- 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
- 1 1/2 teaspoon double-acting baking powder
- 2 sticks (1/2 pound) unsalted butter, at room temperature
- 1 1/2 cups sugar
- 1 extra-large egg
- 1 rounded cup smooth peanut butter
- 1 cup salted cocktail peanuts, finely chopped
- 12 to 16 ounces semisweet or milk chocolate chips (I use 16 ounces)
2) To prepare the cookie batter: In a large bowl, whisk together the flour and baking powder. In another large bowl, using a wooden spoon or electric mixer, cream the softened butter with the sugar until light. Add the egg and mix until smooth. Add the peanut butter and combine well. Stir in the nuts and chocolate chips. Finally, stir in the flou mixture and continue to stir until the batter is smooth throughout. If the dough is a bit crumbly on the bottom, squeeze dry areas gently with your hand to help mixture bind together.
3) To shape and bake cookies: Place rounded tablespoonfuls or level cookie scoops of dough 1 1/2 inches apart on the prepared cookie sheets. You should be able to bake 4 rows of 4 cookies per sheet. (If using a tablespoon, shape each portion of dough into a round.) Using a fork, press each round down gently in a crosshatch pattern. Bake cookies on both levels of the preheated oven until light golden, about 10 minutes, switching shelf positions of the sheets after half the baking.
4) To cool and store cookies: Place the cookie sheets on wire racks to cool for 5 minutes. Then remove cookies using a thin metal spatula and allow them to cool thoroughly on wire racks before storing in an airtight tin.
Questions for Lauren Groveman's Kitchen:
Lauren Groveman recipes have been featured in many national magazines and local newspapers. Her books "The I love to Cook Book: Rediscovering the Joy of Cooking for Family and Friends" and "Lauren Groveman's Kitchen, Nurturing Food for Family and Friends" are available through Amazon.com. Lauren hosts an hour-long, "live" weekly radio show, Food Family & Home "Matters," on 1460 WVOX.
For in depth information on Lauren Groveman as a writer, teacher, TV & radio host, as well as her recipes and cooking tips visit her website at www.laurengroveman.com
Lauren is a Larchmont resident. She is happily married and blessed with three wonderful children.