Dining Review: Sardegna

by MaryAnn De Feis

(July 3, 2008) It’s taken a while, but Larchmont Avenue has joined Chatsworth Avenue as a bustling strip of restaurants offering diverse cuisines. Among them is Sardegna, which opened in 2006, taking the place of Pazzo, and before that Lime, Baci and Pastabilities. After many incarnations of Italian and Continental establishments that stayed too long (or not long enough), Sardegna is giving diners a reason to make the spot a regular destination.

Owner Vittorio Scarpa, who runs Sardegna with his wife Margaret, began his career in Sardinia, an island off Italy’s west coast. He spent time in Rome at top restaurants and came to New York in the 80s, where he worked at four-star Parioli Romanissimo. After a move to L.A. to run his own place, he returned to New York to open the upscale Luna Blu.

Sardegna - Reservation Not A Problem

On three separate evenings, getting a reservation at Sardegna was no problem. Given our very positive and pleasant experience each time, I’m still trying to figure out why you don’t have to vie for a table the way you do at other Larchmont hot spots. There is really no reason not to put Sardegna on speed dial.

The dining room feels intimate yet spacious enough for quiet, private conversation. Soft music suggests romance and relaxation, but Sardegna is not too fancy for a large group or family dinner. On our most recent visit, two couples and their children comfortably shared a long table. The earthy tones and light decorating touch, with accents of Venetian masks and maps of Italy, give the restaurant a gentle European flavor. A wispy floral arrangement in an oversized rustic urn anchors the room and provides extra privacy. Recently, some diners commented that curtains on the front window made them feel closed in. Mr. Scarpa responded by promptly removing the curtains to allow for a more open and welcoming feel. Whether it concerns décor or food, part of the owner’s style is to listen to his customers, and to accommodate them accordingly.

The Menu

From the regular menu, fresh and flavorful Zuppe de Minestrone arrived soon after our very fresh bread accompanied by sun-dried tomato garlic butter. For appetizers, we had a Sardinian staple, Pane Carasau (flat, crispy imported Sardinian bread with melted mozzarella, olive oil and rosemary). Light and delicately flavored, this item probably should be offered along with the regular bread. It’s really not worth ordering as an appetizer when there are many better and more substantial choices.

• The Involtini di Melanzane (rolled eggplant with ricotta cheese and tomato sauce) was fresh and delicious. A war-horse of Italian menus that is often undistinguished, this eggplant dish was done right. The cheese had just the right creaminess; the sauce was fresh and balanced between sweet and slightly acidic, as it should be.
  
  
• The same holds for the Bombas alla Sarda, recommended by our waiter. His recommendation was a good one. The small but intense (not dense) meatballs were light and delicious. A combination of veal, pork and chicken, they rivaled what grandma used to make. We ordered them each time we returned.
  
  
• The Insalata Cesare was the authentic deal. The anchovy flavor melded into the sauce just enough to remind you of what you are eating, but gave room for the other flavors to take hold. Off to the side were large, thinly shaved triangles of Parmesan cheese to mix in as you desire.
  
  
• The Vongole Oreganato (stuffed baked clams) had a delicious bread stuffing blended with a lemony sauce, but the clams were a bit chewy. With better clams, this dish would have been a welcome variation on an old favorite.

Among the main courses, the pasta dishes reflected care and attention to flavor combinations and contrasts. Where Italian dishes can get muddled in cheese and sauce combos, it’s noticeable when a dish surprises and holds your attention.

• In the case of Cavatelli Puglia (pasta with broccoli rabe, sausage, sun-dried tomato and grilled shrimp), you noticed this dish was delicious and satisfying.
  
  
• Another pasta taste bud rejuvenator is Linguini Mare-Sardo (white wine, garlic sauce with shrimp and sun-dried tomatoes). I understand this is a popular dish at Sardegna. Not on the ingredients list, I detected a light lemony flavor that made a nice difference.

I have heard from friends who dine here regularly that the Papardelle al Ragu di Cinghiale (wild boar) is great. But this dish is seasonal, as are other wild game dishes made with rabbit, quail and venison.

The meat dishes were extremely good.

• The Vitello Oristano (sherry wine sauce with sun-dried tomatoes and artichokes) was excellent. Most importantly, the veal was tender and fresh, and the topping a good balance to the meat. Salt, a common addition that overwhelms and ruins so many Italian dishes, was kept to a minimum in this and other offerings.
  
  
• The Pollo Sardegna (chicken garnished with shrimp and Portobello mushrooms in a white wine, garlic and cream sauce) was, again, fresh, flavorful and enjoyable. The shrimp could have been bigger, however.
  
  
• A side of roasted cauliflower and potato accompanies all entrees.

For dessert, we “forced” ourselves to sample two items. We would have loved to have gone further, but we stopped at three scoops of gelato, which were as they should be, rich, creamy and zinging with flavor. The homemade Ricotta Cheesecake was good, but it was served a bit too cold and was not as grainy and flavorful as other Italian varieties.

An extensive wine list, including Sardinian specialties, appropriately completes the meal.

Prices are fair and comparable to other neighborhood restaurants. Servings are perfectly adequate, though hearty eaters may find some items to be small.

Add to Your Speed Dial

In Larchmont’s dining scene, some places immediately hit the mark and attract almost everyone, while others quietly build an audience with consistency and commitment to their vision. Italian restaurants, of course, are ubiquitous. Ideally, the best choices combine good location, ambiance, food quality and variety with the integrity and generosity of the proprietor. Sardegna meets this standard. I appreciated the personal flair and idiosyncratic touches. There is no scene here, no shtick and no overt attempt to attract a crowd. Vittorio Scarpa is patiently waiting for everyone to catch on.

That might not take too much longer.

At a recent soccer game, where sideline chatter often turns to restaurant reviews, one person said “hands down” the best Italian restaurant in town is Sardegna. After three visits, I can understand why she feels that way.

MaryAnn De Feis lives and dines in Larchmont.

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