Dining Review: Savini

(December 19, 2002) Larchmont foodies are a lucky bunch. We seem to have a new restaurant to try every few weeks. One of the newest is Savini, occupying the Boston Post Road building that has housed many restaurants in the past, including the old Côte d'Argent and Zio Coconato.

Open since August 22, Savini serves regional Italian dishes in a light, airy dining room. Chef Cristina deFalco, a graduate of the New York Cooking School and the Italian-American Institute in Milan, cooked for several years at the revered Il Cortile on Mulberry Street in Little Italy. "She got a huge, broad-based start there," according to co-owner Allison McIntyre. Ms. deFalco has had a good start here in Larchmont too, judging from the opinions of four diners in my party. From the regular menu, the calamari fritti (fried squid) arrived plump, juicy and crunchy in their light batter. The large antipasto caldo plate, with an assortment of hot appetizers, was enough for two or three people to share. Sauté di Vongole, steamed baby clams in a garlic broth, were delightfully fresh, sweet and tender.

Among the main courses, a complex, rich osso bucco stood out. Served over buttery risotto, the tender veal fairly melted off the bone, nicely accented by a garlicky, fresh-tasting tomato sauce. The flavors of meat, risotto and sauce melded into a highly satisfying dish, and the portion would please any hearty appetite. My companion, wanting to save room for the apple phyllo beckoning from the dessert menu, took at least half the osso bucco home.

One of our party, a tuna afficionado, raved about Savini's pan-seared tuna with lemon and orange zested bread crumbs. The chef, left to her own devices, prepared it perfectly rosy inside, lightly seared outside. Alas, we didn't fare as well with the mahi-mahi in a butter and wine sauce, a special main course. A delicate fish, it suffered that night from slightly too much time on the heat. Fagatini di Vitello, a veal cutlet stuffed with prosciutto and fontina, pleased with first-rate ingredients and a tasty sauce full of artichoke hearts, parsley and pine nuts.

Service was professional and friendly, the atmosphere warm and inviting. Savini has plenty of competition in the area, and it has a way to go before it reaches the level of Lusardi's on a good night. But the potential is there. Dinner for one, with appetizer, main course, two glasses of house wine, dessert (worth saving room for) and coffee, came to about $50, including tax.