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Lunch Review: Palmer's Crossing

( July 25, 2002 ) Larchmont's newest "white tablecloth" restaurant, Palmer's Crossing, is the latest eatery to occupy the corner of Palmer and West Avenues. Owner Sal Baglio, a former corporate trainer for a financial services firm, had looked for three years before finding the perfect site for his new restaurant. "I just love this area," said the Pleasantville resident. "We're not trying to compete with Lusardi's," he said. "We're catering to families, offering contemporary American food, but we wanted to be a bit upscale." Baglio and partner Russ Baldassare ran a restaurant in Ardsley together, and both of them care intensely about hands-on management of the new venture. "One of us will always be here," Baglio vows. "I'm a perfectionist. I want to make sure everything comes out the same way each time." As soon as the restaurant's cabaret license is approved, Baglio intends to add a jazz trio on weekend nights.

Open since May, Palmer's Crossing is a promising addition to Larchmont's dining scene, but it has some problems to solve. At lunch with two companions this week, I sampled a variety of appetizers, main dishes and desserts. The food was generally tasty but uninspired. Best of the appetizers was the vegetable quesadilla, a crispy and flaky flour tortilla enfolding piping-hot melted cheese and fresh vegetables. The shrimp cocktail was also good, with large, chewy boiled shrimp and a zesty sauce. Less successful was the Maryland crab cake. Although it was full of crabmeat and came with a flavorful remoulade sauce, the breading lacked crunch and the red pepper garnish was past its prime.

The Cobb salad, served in a huge fried pastry shell, had the classic ingredients of romaine lettuce, bacon, hardboiled egg and calamata olives. Avocado is usually a big part of a Cobb salad, but it was rather inconspicuous this time. Chunks of grilled chicken, while tasty, were a bit dry.

"Personal pizza" is a popular lunch item on many menus, and Palmer's Crossing offers three varieties. We sampled the Margherita, served European-style, with roasted tomato sauce and a refreshingly light layer of fresh mozzarella cheese. Aside from the slightly tough, too-thick crust, the pizza was a good choice.

The grilled chicken margarita sandwich, served with French fries, was more French and Italian than its Mexican name would suggest. Served on a crispy baguette-like roll, the grilled chicken was smothered in melted mozzarella, with an overwhelming dollop of pesto.

To a non-Southerner, iced tea may seem an unimportant part of the meal, but good tea can be a sign of attention to detail in the kitchen. Palmer Crossing's iced tea was strong, refreshing and "just right," according to my lunch companion from North Carolina.

Although dessert seemed a bit de trop after such a filling lunch, the Gazette's intrepid food critics rose to the occasion. Key lime pie, tangy and creamy, and the dark chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream stood out. Even the decaf coffee was unusually good. "We use a Columbian roast," said owner Baglio.

At lunch, appetizers and main dishes were all in the $7-$12 range, and the service was attentive and professional. If Palmer's Crossing is to become a contender in the hot Larchmont restaurant field, chef Giorgio Giacento needs to build on his good beginning by improving the finishing of his dishes, adding more interesting menu choices, and using only the freshest ingredients. Will prices have to rise for that to happen? Time will tell.

Watch for a dinner review in coming weeks.