A Vat of Mussels, Bathed in a Spicy Persillade

(February 8, 2007)

Jennifer asked Lauren:
...submit your question to Lauren!

I am so intrigued by last week's "twirl-able" zucchini recipe! I read in your column that you serve it underneath cooked clams and mussels. I've always had trouble cooking clams with mussels. The timing is always way off (the clams are always shut tight way after the mussels open, so I always end up overcooking the mussels!). Do you cook clams and mussels together or should one always cook them separately?

Lauren says...

The term "stubborn as a clam" is quite literal. I often cook clams with mussels but, because most varieties of hard-shell clams are very stubborn and need to cook for a longer time before they'll open (about 8 to 10 minutes, depending on the intensity of your heat source), I put clams into the pot first. Then, after the clams have all just started to open, that's when I add the mussels (keeping the heat high and the lid on tight) until they, too, start to open (which just takes about 4 minutes). Then, you'll let them both cook for the rest of the time together, with the heat reduced to low-medium, to prevent them from becoming rubbery, until the clams and mussels are all wide open. Any that remain stubbornly shut are to be discarded since this indicates that they were dead prior to cooking. Small hard-shell clams (called vongole, cockles or Manila clams) cook quicker than the larger clams, so they can go into the pot at the same time as the mussels.

Here's a wonderful recipe for my Mussels, in a Spicy Persillade, applicable for cooking clams or mussels alone or together. Enjoy!

A Vat of Mussels, Bathed in a Spicy Persillade

Yield: serves 6

This recipe is a perfect choice when you want something soothing in a hurry. Before you go to the market, please read the sidebar for some important information on handling shellfish, before you cook them. And, although the word "mussels" is in the title of this recipe, don't hesitate to substitute either the little Manila clams (also called vongole or cockles) or the larger, little neck clams instead of the mussels. Or mix them, and cook according to the directions in the recipe.

For the mussels:


• 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil or Garlic Confit Oil
• 1/3 generous cup chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley (or mix parsley and thinly sliced chives)
• 1/3 cup dry white wine
• 10 to 12 cloves garlic, minced
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, crushed or finely chopped
• 4 pounds mussels or hard-shell clams (or 2 pounds of each), cleaned (see instructions for caring for live clams and mussels, before cooking)
• 1/2 cup chicken stock
• 4 tablespoons melted butter (optional, but highly recommended)
• Suggested accompaniments: "Spaghettied" Zucchini or 1 pound freshly cooked and buttered store-bought linguine, and a loaf of crusty bread.

1) To prepare the persillade: Combine the olive oil, salt, parsley, wine, garlic and crushed red pepper flakes in a bowl and set it aside, for now.

2) To simmer the mussels and serve: Heat a 6-quart, heavy-bottomed saucepan over high heat and, when hot, add the mussels and a light sprinkling of salt. Cover the pot tightly and allow the mussels to cook until they are opened slightly, about 4 minutes. Remove the lid and pour in the persillade and stock and stir to combine well. Cover the pot and bring the liquids to a boil then reduce the heat to low and simmer the mussels until fully opened and meat is cooked, about 5 minutes more. Stir in the melted butter, if using, then grind on a good amount of black pepper.

3) If cooking clams alone or with the mussels: If using larger hard-shell clams alone (Little Necks or Cherry Stones), they'll need to cook longer, to open. Add clams to the pot, as you would mussles, but let them cook about 8 minutes, over high heat, until they start to open. Then, follow the remaining instructions, given above. If using clams with mussels, let the clams cook alone until they are all slightly opened, 8 minutes, then add the mussels (still over high heat and tightly covered) and, once they, too, start to open, follow the remaining instructions. If using the smaller clams (called cockles, vongole or Manila clams) add them to the pot with the mussels.

4) To serve: Ladle the hot mussels and/or clams either into individual bowls, with some of the broth spooned on top, or serve over cooked "spaghettied" zucchini or pasta. Place extra bowls on the table, to accommodate the shells and provide each person at the table with a soup spoon (and a hunk of delicious crusty bread), to enjoy every bit of the savory sauce.

Timing is Everything


• The persillade can be made early in the day of cooking. Store it in the refrigerator, but bring close to room temperature, before using.

On Handling Live Clams and Mussels (Mollusks)

To clean mussels: Thankfully, because mussels today are usually cultivated, they are much easier to clean and, out of an entire batch, you'll only find a few specimens with some scraggly beards attached. Just before cooking, do the following: Place the mussels in a large well-perforated colander (in the sink) and run cold water over them, using your hands to continually toss them, exposing them all to large amounts of water. Pull out and discard any protruding beards, then shake off any excess water. The mussels are now ready to be cooked.

To clean hard-shell clams: Hard-shell clams, although there are no beards to deal with, can be very dirty. To clean them, just before cooking, scrub them with a wire bristle clam brush, or rub them against each other, while rinsing under cold water. Soft shell clams need only to be rinsed well, before cooking. Discard any that have a broken shell and, if the shell is opened before cooking, tap on it and wait a few seconds for it to close. Although soft shell clams are always semi-opened, if you see one that is wide open, touch the neck of clam and you should see it retreat. If you don't see signs of life, throw it away since one bad clam or mussel, can ruin the taste and aroma of the entire dish. Finally, if after cooking, there are clams or mussels that have remained shut, don't try to pry them open since they were probably dead at the outset.

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Questions for Lauren Groveman's Kitchen:

Lauren Groveman recipes have been featured in many national magazines and local newspapers. Her books "The I love to Cook Book: Rediscovering the Joy of Cooking for Family and Friends" and "Lauren Groveman's Kitchen, Nurturing Food for Family and Friends" are available through Amazon.com.

For in depth information on Lauren Groveman as a writer, teacher, TV & radio host, as well as her recipes and cooking tips visit her website at www.laurengroveman.com

Lauren is a Larchmont resident. She is happily married and blessed with three wonderful children.