The Romantic Rhine

by Marlene Fanta Shyer

(October 2, 2003) In certain towns along the Rhine, when a photographer wants to capture a smile, he won't ask you to say "Cheese". It is customary instead to say, "Riesling," that magic word which elicits cheer--and a great deal more--in this fertile corner of Germany. Where else in the world will you encounter a statue of the Virgin holding the infant Jesus in one hand and a bunch of grapes in another?

The Rhine itself flows north from Switzerland to the Netherlands, but it's the middle region, the "Mittel-Rhein" stretch from Mainz to Koblenz, that is full of color, history and diversity. There are several ways to get from place to place here, but the most relaxing is to float up (or down) the lazy river in one of the many boats that dock in the towns along the route. These ships pretty much resemble glass-walled hotel dining rooms, with some open decks, and occasional public-address type commentary at points of particular interest. A nice lunch aboard will cost in the neighborhood of fifteen dollars.

The Köln-Dusseldorfer boats depart with regularity, and a three hour trip is just about right;it will take you from one city or village to another. Look out the windows and you will see towns of half-timbered houses with funky names like Brey and Spay and Bad Salzig as they slide by. The hills that hover in the background are the Taunus Mountains and their foothills are great for hiking.

Mainz, "the city that sings and dances" might be called the featured player of the mid-Rhine. Decimated in World War II, the city has been well rebuilt and is most famous for being the birthplace and home of Johannes Gutenberg, the man who did not invent the printing press as is commonly believed, but rather, created the system of movable type, which allowed the printing and distribution of quantities of the Holy Bible, in 1455. A large statue in town honors him, and old Bibles are on display at the Gutenberg Museum.

The city is also home to thirty churches, two cathedrals, and five monasteries. Most interesting is St.Stephen's Church, famous for its Chagall windows, begun in 1978 when the artist was well into his eighties and living in France. The brilliant blue stained glass depicting Old Testament motifs reflect the local Jewish culture that existed here in mideval times.

At the confluence of the Moselle and Rhine Rivers, is the city of Koblenz, with its many outdoor restaurants and village squares. It has its quirky city symbol, a statue of a mischievous boy who spits water from his stone mouth every few seconds, and a hilltop castle that was never destroyed, never captured. It you're game to climb 80 steps, the views of the Rhine are thrilling, the torture chamber chilling.

Other towns boast their own attractions: Bornhofen, a monastery whose roots date back to the 12th Century, Rudesheim with its 10,000 wine taverns, Rheinfels, the "Maus," the largest castle on the Rhine, St.Goar the spot at which that famous blonde temptress, Loreley, sat on a rock and sang a song that lured sailors to their deaths. You, I promise, will have a much better Rhine experience!

Marlene Fanta Shyer's most recent book is The Rainbow Kite.
Reach her at http://www.marleneshyer.com

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